Author Topic: tomcat t25...  (Read 4748 times)

Bass J

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tomcat t25...
« on: 18:13, Mon 12 January 2009 »
Ok ...ive got myself a t25 with minimal play in the shaft.  I want it to fit my gtt engine.  Ive span the housings properly ..then i was told an oil line needs to bit facing the top ..so span the housings ..water pipe fowls on the manifold. So i have to get the circlip off ..which i think is siezed on as it aint budging.

Also oil return pipe is different to the gtt obviously...how did you get it to fit.

Turbo elbow ..ive managed to get 3bolts lined up ..could someone please tell me how it fits properly ..i spoke to bob at cgb on the fone he said something about a washer.

I hope somebody can help me as im soo close to just getting a standard T2 that fits the gtt engine lol.

r5gtt08

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« Reply #1 on: 19:05, Mon 12 January 2009 »
hi m8y what i did with mine was first of all you need to make two holes on the mainfold base plate bigger(drill them out i'll get you sum pics)



then if you know anyone who is good at welding/fabricating your laughing i have another pic for how to get the t2 elbow to fit





the oil drain pipe , well i took mine off some other turbo but if you have the tomcat one just cut it down to a bit.


as for the water pipe i cant help you as mine is not a problem

if this is any help let me know and if you cant get the elbow welded i can get it done for you (20 but you have to pay for postage both ways)

 :lol:
DONT KNOCK IT TIL YOU TRIED IT!!!!!!!!!

Ash-Lee

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« Reply #2 on: 19:09, Mon 12 January 2009 »
You want the oil feed right on top.

You don't have to remove the circlip completely, i just compressed mine and span the housing around then released them again. Are you using proper circlip pliers? There a damn sight easier.

I'm not sure why the water pipe is fouling the manifold? I don't remember having that problem. Maybe post up a picture?

Oil drain, use the Rover oil drain but hacksaw it down to the correct length and attach the R5 rubber drain pipe. You could get a thread tapped into the turbo for the oil drain off the T2 but thats a really bad idea incase any swarf falls inside.

Turbo elbow, have a look here.

http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/turbo-elbo ... -558-p.asp

Basically just a washer, i had to trim a few places with a grinder on my elbow to get the washer to sit flat, otherwise the bolt will start to bend and if it snaps it can be a pain to remove.

Any other problems let me know, i've done this twice before on mine.  :shock:

Bass J

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« Reply #3 on: 21:25, Mon 12 January 2009 »
Ok lads cheers. When you say a washer ash-lee ..is it inbetween the elbow and turbo ..or with the bolt to go in (i hope that made sense lol).

Im using circlip plyers for them but i dont think they are big enough tho lol. Can anyone point me on ebay or something to the right tools. Im getting to that point where i think im spending more money on tools than parts  :lol:  ...i went round a few garages and they refused to touch it LOL.

A pic of said circlip lol -

kinda wish i just baught a standard t2 turbo that fits a gtt instead of being a cheapskate ...i got the t25 for 30

My next question is actuators ..ive got a forge one ..not sure what its rated to.

The penny is sitting like this with the actuator on ..is it supposed to be closed? -


I kno how to adjust it but not sure what way LOL

smithsgtt

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« Reply #4 on: 22:00, Mon 12 January 2009 »
its ment to be closed tight the actuator up till its closed

Bass J

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« Reply #5 on: 22:14, Mon 12 January 2009 »
Ok cheers man ...i just didnt want to bugger up my turbo before even coming on boost  :lol:

Ash-Lee

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« Reply #6 on: 18:35, Tue 13 January 2009 »
I used some circlip pliers with a 90 degree bend in them, straight ones might be a bit awkward.

Don't worry about knackering it, with the actuator that far open you will hardly get any boost at all.  :lol:

Wind the actuator in, but not tight. You want to be able to pull it open without using to much force.

Bolt it all up and get it running, then slowly tighten the actuator up to get the boost pressure you require.

Now depending on the condition of the T25 you should be ok to run 1BAR @ carb top, i ran mine at 1BAR@ manifold (around 18psi) without any problems but mine was in good condition.

I noticed you have removed the exhaust housing in one picture. Not a problem but when you have refitted it make sure the wheels still turn freely.

Bass J

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« Reply #7 on: 22:13, Tue 13 January 2009 »
aye i took the exhaust housing off to get to the circlip. 1bar boost  :shock:  lol ill just set it low till i get used to it really as im jumping from a 1.2 clio to a gtt engine  :lol:

Ive got a set of circlip plyers ...tryed using them ..i either suck at using them ...or the clip's siezed on  :lol: so im guessing its a case of getting it in a vice and using some persuasion  :lol:  :lol:

whitneyd

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« Reply #8 on: 06:53, Wed 14 January 2009 »
Try putting some penetrating oil on the clip and letting it sit over night re-applying the oil every hour or so. On the next day take a small punch or flat tip screwdriver and hit around the clip. the vibrations from hitting it can loosen the corosion. Then you should be able to get it with the pliers.
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Ash-Lee

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« Reply #9 on: 17:09, Wed 14 January 2009 »
It's a big strong clip, try using two hands.  :lol:

Seriously though, however designed circlips needs shooting. I hate the things, just when you think you have located them they ping off and you slip bash your knuckles. Usually on something hard.

James5

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« Reply #10 on: 18:33, Wed 14 January 2009 »
Why remove the compressor circlip personally I would detach the actuator and bracket and water feeds stick a crowbar or similair strong tool in the compressor housing outlet and another in the exhaust housing (make sure ex housing is all bolted up) might be an ides to spray around the compressor circlip with some WD40 and leave for a bit and then give the compressor housing a good pull whilst standing on the bar in the exhaust housing to get it in the right position :lol:

Worked form me some years back on a previous GTT



Bass J

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« Reply #11 on: 20:10, Wed 14 January 2009 »
Thanks for the replies people ...ill give what james done a try  :D ..never though of the good old crowbar method  :D

whitneyd

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« Reply #12 on: 06:24, Thu 15 January 2009 »
Quote from: "Bass J"
Thanks for the replies people ...ill give what james done a try  :D ..never though of the good old crowbar method  :D


Yea but look at the avtar under his name you better eat some spinach.
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5teve L

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« Reply #13 on: 10:12, Thu 15 January 2009 »
I've done it the same way as James on both housings before, so i didn't split the turbo completely as i wasn't replacing any seals...
Spray with loads of WD or MR P & try the knocking the circlip with the hammer & punch to loosen it, then put a cloth in the comp housing & add a bar, pull :)

r5gtt08

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« Reply #14 on: 10:20, Thu 15 January 2009 »
ON MINE I COULDNT DO IT WITH THE CIRCLIP PLIERS SO I SPRAYED WD40 ON IT THEN TAPPED IT ROUND WITH HAMMER AND I DIDNT DAMAGE THE HOUSING BUT YOU MUST BE CAREFULL IF YOU USE A HAMMER AND DONT RUSH IT
DONT KNOCK IT TIL YOU TRIED IT!!!!!!!!!