Author Topic: fitting a performance cam  (Read 1948 times)

bernard

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fitting a performance cam
« on: 16:36, Tue 25 November 2008 »
When fitting a performance cam with a veiner pully does the head need to be on?? Its just because I dont think I will be albe to fit the engine back into the bay with the head on as Im keeping the gearbox in place. thanks

James5

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Re: fitting a performance cam
« Reply #1 on: 17:45, Tue 25 November 2008 »
Quote from: "bernard"
When fitting a performance cam with a veiner pully does the head need to be on?? Its just because I dont think I will be albe to fit the engine back into the bay with the head on as Im keeping the gearbox in place. thanks


You can do it without matey :D  The cams in the block not the head

Ash-Lee

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« Reply #2 on: 17:45, Tue 25 November 2008 »
No it doesn't.

bernard

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« Reply #3 on: 18:06, Tue 25 November 2008 »
o thats good, im still trying to figure out how to do the cam with the veiner pully and using a protractor, I can work out how to do it with the standared pully  :?

bernard

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Re: fitting a performance cam
« Reply #4 on: 18:08, Tue 25 November 2008 »
Quote from: "Jame5_GTT"
Quote from: "bernard"
When fitting a performance cam with a veiner pully does the head need to be on?? Its just because I dont think I will be albe to fit the engine back into the bay with the head on as Im keeping the gearbox in place. thanks

You can do it without matey :D  The cams in the block not the head


I know were the cam is its just I need to know for doing the timing   :D

5teve L

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« Reply #5 on: 19:36, Tue 25 November 2008 »
If you can't work it out from the protractor, time it with the standard sproket, get the vernier & see where it lines up, remove the standard, refit the vernier...
Is it a new cam, from a blank? Or a regrind ??

bernard

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« Reply #6 on: 20:03, Tue 25 November 2008 »
its a blank cam so new, I thought about doing it that way like you said when I picked up the block but if I do it that way wont it be just the same as having the standard pully.

5teve L

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« Reply #7 on: 20:14, Tue 25 November 2008 »
If it's a blank & not a grind it should be spot on, it's then you need to decide if you want to retard or advance the cam, advance will give you low down torque & retard will let you rev it higher, better for drag with a large turbo... I think thats the right way round. lol.

bernard

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« Reply #8 on: 20:21, Tue 25 November 2008 »
thanks for that steve, Ive still got alot to learn but getting there, Ive just worked out how to do the timing. I read this off some website:

Full Lift Position method:

For many years the most commonly used method has involved establishing top dead center (TDC) as a datum (zero degrees) and positioning your camshaft with its inlet valve at maximum lift at a given position relative to this datum.
For example take our Ford x/flow camshaft number 234 which has a quoted figure of inlet timing @ full lift = 103 degrees. This means that the inlet valve should be set to be fully open at 103 degrees after top dead center. Therefore using a protractor or timing disc you can establish 103 degrees after TDC and it is at this point that your inlet valve should be fully open. Minor adjustments from the standard timing point can be made with the aid of adjustable timing kits or an offset dowel.

I think to set the protractor you need to make up some kind of pointer pointing to tdc on the protractor when the engine is in tdc.