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Topics - s3irios

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1
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Low 10s AFRs on slight throttle
« on: 17:35, Sat 13 July 2013 »
Hello again people. I had some issues with my 5 before. Managed to solve everything but still got a major one.
On the AEM  gauge, on slight throttle shows low 10s. Ac jet is drilled at 1.1 to help solve the issue but nothing (previously at 0.9).
main jet is standard 1.2.  On the enrichment circuit, 1st removable jet is 1 mm and the second stage is drilled to 1.2 to help the on wot fueling.
 At 16 psi with a T25 turbo i get 11.5 afrs (way too rich though), on slight throttle-cruise i have constant low 10s (10-10.5)...
Is there a possibility the fuel regulator is faulty? If for some reason it is, and allows more fuel pressure, is it possible for the above effects to produce?
Carb is serviced and cleaned. I'm busting my head to fix this cause from one hand the fuel consumption is extremely bad, plus the constant so rich mixture will fook up the engine for sure.

2
Hello again my fellow 5ers'.  Just got and installed my AEM afr wideband kit.
Since then i have issues with the readings. On idle it shows high 17s to no reading ( - - - )
, cruising jumps all over the place but mainly low, from 14.8 to 11. On full boost not full revs though it shows 10-11. I know car is running rich, i remeber checking the jets finding them ok with a drill bit set but i may have been wrong so i need to check it out again. Still i know i'm running rich cause spark plugs keep blackening and fuel consumption is really big.

Got a video here, just some cruising and the weird readings. (bonus on 2.29 mark u can hear me saying "wtf" :P)


3
As title describes, i bought 12 days ago from China a full 15 piece set of winner racing silicone hoses at the price of 170 euros. I received today a bag  with enclosed different spec hoses (more silicone layers and cloth plus blue interior, "stops" at hoses entrances and "samco sport" printed on all of them.
Now i'm just wondering could it really be? Or they're just very good samco look alike hoses?
I didn't order any look alike product, i bought an actual chinese product that i knew was inferior to samco ofcourse, thats the weird thing.


4
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Hesitation on and over 3k rpm (video included)
« on: 01:01, Sun 20 November 2011 »
Hello again i'm starting a new topic since i got new data and more organised now.

As it was my problem persists. Under load at the 3k rpm and over i feel car not wanting to rev, holding back a lot. If i push accelerator full open, it pops from the engine somewhere and doesn't spool up. I don't have the valve that the genuine r5gtt has on the hose that goes from intercooler to carb, that bangs on overboost so this isn't it.

Also i have the choque cable removed and the choque on the carb tighten with a tire-up so it doesn't open accidentally. The rpm on idle are set at 800 rpm and they were steady.

BUT the rpms when cold AND hot are at 1200 with no apparent reason. Sometimes and on the road while stopping in a light or something, the rpm would drop to the normal 800 and when there the car has NO hesitation or holding back at 3k under load , it revs normallly.
If the car is mis-operating on idle at 1200 rpm  the hesitation at 3k under load appears...
Prior to these problems i had just installed new spark plugs and had the valves adjusted. Nothing else.Then the next day these problems appeared or at least made themselves more apparent (the problem may have been there some days before too but i can't remember)
This is the general problem, now i'm going to write what i've done to the car while trying to solve the problem.


*Changed dizzy cap
*Changed rotor arm inside dizzy
*Checked all hoses and pipes for any air leaks.None found
* Removed whole carb, turned to bits and cleaned thoroughly with carb cleaner.Nothing too serious dirt wise, but i insisted on triangle part of the carb just incase.Reinstalled all fine.
* Mixture screw is a-ok rubber ring on it fine too.
* Put a smear of sealant on the top of the inlet manifold only not on carb side, as i read at posts about warped manifolds. There was a leak there which got fixed.
* Checked by sight the spark cables nothing there. Reinstalled them just incase.
* I also found possible mega leak at the inlet manifold on the connection with the head. Found this while i was checking if the nuts of the manifold were tight, and gues what they weren't. Tightened them as much as i could. THe leak fixed a bit, previously the mis-idle was at 1500 rpm now stays at 1200 rpm as i mention above)

Nothing changed on the main problem. It's still there, it scarsely stops and hav the right idle at 800 and NO hesitation, then it magically reappears next time i drive the car.

I promised a video so here it is.

It's after a 25km trip, warm engine FULL hesitation on the 3k mark all the way. I'm stopped outside my home and on IDLE only. I'm NOT pressing the accelerator at all so:
1) why idle at 1200 when i've set it at 800? Maybe the renix broken? Or the manifold still elaks that much?
2) why these fluctuations on the revs, up and down?
3) LOL i just learnt that a faulty alternator can be the reason for hesitation under load! Is this a case on the r5?
[youtube:3jhwsqgc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoCrNHOxqTk[/youtube:3jhwsqgc]

5
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Hesitation at 3k rpm!
« on: 22:05, Mon 17 October 2011 »
Hello everybody YET again! Started a new post  for this since the previous one had another main isue that resolved,

After i had the car's valves adjusted, i put new plugs ngk b8evx too.Carbs idle was adjusted too(too low so i adjusted it again :S). From that time i had an issue while on the road and while passing the 3k rp mark. It hesitated heavily, not banged or anything, just holding back a lot. Had another issue at the time as i mention above with the temp staying really cool on the whole way. Thought it hesitated cause of low temp BUT i fixed the temp problem by installing the missing thermostat and the hesitation remains.
 Just for general info the turbo (t25) starts spooling at the 3k rpm mark, thought that the turbo was stalled, but after some checking i heard the turbo spooling while the hesitation occured so it's not the turbo.

I didn't check the plugs gap, but i think they have the right gap from the company? I didn't drop or hit any of them so i didn't had anything to do with the gap at all.

Another thing along with this is that the car feels a bit hard while cold and on idle, though when warm it works just fine on idle.

6
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Too low temp after 30km trip.(Pic included)
« on: 11:06, Sun 16 October 2011 »
Heya guys once again, got a "thing" over here.

3-4 days now while on the road i saw that on 3k  and while trying to boost it a bit (the t25 i have opens at 3.1k ) the car was holding back like when its too cold. The temp was just at mid or maybe a tiny bit below it. fter it was at the appropriate temp it spooled ok. he weird thing was that i was on the road for 15 mins and i thought it would be on temp already. The weather is not too cold here.

Now had the same thing, i started from home and in the mid  and till the end of the way to my job (~28km) the temp was in the mid of the 2 first lines! Couldn't boost above 3k cause it holded back and i honestly didn't want to press it while cold.


This is how it looked from mid way till the end when i reached my job:

7
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Oil pressure indicator
« on: 14:33, Sat 08 October 2011 »
Hello ppl!

My oil indication was never working, the oil light did work though since it goes to a different valve.

So today i cleaned the valve and the 2 cables that go on it with a plastic cover. Nothing.
Decided to take the organs off, so after checking and fixing a bit the small nuts in the back of the organ panel, i put them all back together, and it worked!!!! For 5 mins... yeeee.... :roll: While on the road it showed 3.8 - 4  steadily. After 5 mins it just dropped down and never worked again.

Had a spare panel with bulbs missing , not in very good condition tbh, so i just removed the oil pressure organ from the spare panel and what striked odd was that the needle behaved much more firmly, like it didnt drop immediately down, it dropped slowly. The previous one dropped immediately down so i guessed that was the issue, a faulty organ. So i put it on my own panel. Still nothing.

Any ideas?  I mean why would it work for 5 mins then stop again.

8
Ice / Heard of Axton speakers?
« on: 09:26, Sun 04 September 2011 »
Hello mateys, i was looking for some audio installment in my car and after a lot of search found some Focals (MUCHO expensive!) and a company named Axton. After further search i found them to be pretty decent speakers, quality much more of any kenwood pioneer or any equivalent "known" company. I'm talking about the speakers only here, not for head units so bare with me :P

So i head off and installed:

1) In front http://www.axton.de/axc26_uk.html   : 6.5" Component Speaker System  
2) in the back http://www.axton.de/axf369_uk.html : x 9" Triaxial Speaker System

Powered by an 4 channel SPL and a Spectron 4 channel bridged.

Anyone used them before? Any kinda reviews or something?
They do play rather excellent till now, but i was used to some awful 40 euro speakers so first time with good components.

9
General Chat / Trying to buy from CGB
« on: 17:38, Thu 01 September 2011 »
Hello fellas, im after some stuff from cgbmotorsport, i emailed them all fine they gave me some prices, im ok with that no problems, they were kind and ok with everything. But for some reason they do not accept anything else exept paypal, which at the mo i can't use neither do i have active credit card. I offered to pay by bank transfer but they said they preferred with paypal :S

Is this typical with other cases or is it just me and living in Greece an issue? Don't have any issue with the fellas as i said earlier, this is not a /cry or /flame post i was just wondering why.

10
Renault 5 GT Turbo / -4.8 camber angle with Apex Sport!!!
« on: 16:30, Mon 29 August 2011 »
Well as the title says, today i bought new apex sport with 3,5cm lowering springs.
Immediately we saw dbig difference in the holes of the shock. THey were totally different from the old one. We knew we would have some negative (good) camber change. When we measured it, it was -4.8 to BOTH wheels, meaning it's not from a previous crash or hit of the car, that in some way affected the camber numbers. We triple checked the part number of the shocks and they were ok. For r5gt 87'-90' . Mine is 89'

So we began the process of drilling the holes bigger and oval in order to repair the camber a bit, we managed to bring it to -3.8 ! But still as of some of u know it's still a LOT!

I visited another garage afterwards and after a brief talk with the "headmaster" there, we conluded that tomorrow he is going to make some custom smaller in thickness screws, in order to be able to reach the camber at -2 or -2,5 at the worst case scenario.


My questions is (with total respect to the forum and the people reading this post)

W T F ?

meaning, how a right set of shocks from a known company like apex and a car with no problems affecting the camber can result to a MASSIVE negative camber?
Plz enlighten me if you have any info on that.

PS : I welcome all the laughing and facepalms as i kinda want to take this matter from the "funny side".

11
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Tons of blue smoke (The Misty 5)
« on: 11:31, Sun 14 August 2011 »
Heya guys, as the title says TONS literally of blue smoke BUT only when i start it cold and till it reaches the mid line in the temperature organ. Then it's clear as a shiny day in the country. It may even be leaking oil from the turbo when it's hot and the engine is stopped, so when i fire it up again next day, the yesterday leaked oil just burns up in the exhaust?

Turbo HAS play on it and i don't know when and if it has even been repaired. It's the old phase 1 turbo with only oil cooling on it. Plans are made for replacing it with a T25, but it's mid August so everyone here are off to islands and beer so no go until the end of this month or so.

The real question lies here:
Since it only burns oil till it's got some decent temperature and then it's OK, it's only the turbo?
The seals on the head must be ok?
Just some reassurance since i'll have to wait 20 or so days till i replace the turbo, and i'm worried as hell.

12
Finally after getting de-rusted and resprayed, managing the water hoses plus a TONS more, it is on the road again, after 1,5 year of it being under a hood.





Sorry for the "crying" style of the problems listed but i think u know what a pain is on this car to manage its problems, with the 0 space in engine bay, and everything falling-breaking off while u try to remove-refit them. I also know that a post without pics is not going to progress well, so i'll kinda manage to get some pics of the car as it is now, and some of the problem areas, to make it more "appealing"  :D .
So...

1) It doesn't spool correctly. Meaning: it revs with no spluttering or anything like that, turbo(turbo from phase 1 with no water cooling) is working and adjusted to 11-12 psi max(not using these max psi a lot these days just trying to finish the car)  BUT while reving from 1800 to approximately 3k revs and while having ANY gear in, it behaves like its lagging to death, and an ENORMOUS "WWWSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSHSSH" sound is heard while revs are getting higher. All this time i dont get any of this turbo's power, it's like it's having a massive air leak but i honestly don't know where from. The only thing left not checked correctly is the original intercooler i have on. And the truth is i really don't know how to check it correctly. Fill it with water and check for leaks? Put it in water and see if water comes in from somewhere?

2) i Have a pinking like noise and i really don't know if it is pinking, the valves not adjusted properly or something EVEN worse. It's pretty distinctive, like an old engine with hitting valves or something. THe thing is that the valves were adjusted in front of me some time ago while i must admit i don't trust this person very much about his knowledge. I know i must check the knock sensor, the truth is that the cables coming out of it are a bit "off" so it might not working at all. I use 95 unleaded fuel. Oil is brand new 15-40.

3) the central lock isnt locking the passengers door (i own a left driver car, so the passengers door is the right one as u see it from inside. I removed the door panels, i reached the mechanism but i trully don't know what i can do over there. Only maybe removing it and replacing it, which seems a bit hard by the means of getting it back together inside there. It's the lock, the in handle, the out handle, well it seems awkward. After i tried to kinda move it inside few times with my hand, it seemed it was working for 2-3 times but then stopped.
I guees the only thing i can do is replace it?

4) While achelerating the car, i get metal noises from around the car, like metal stretching  :shock:  :shock: . The car is not cut in half or anything so it is a rather strange noise. I thought it might be from the plastics outside, but while i drove it without them, i think it did it again. Not a big sound but its there everytime i start gently from a traffic light etc...

5) Weird noises from the steering wheel too. And i mean the steering wheel's inside the car, not the mechanism in the engine bay (sorry for poor english here but its kinda late and i forgot a lot of words  :lol: ) While i turn it has a bit of play, up-down-left-right and it sounds like it is hitting something plastic in the steering wheels column. I thought about the brushes at first but the noises?

6) I keep getting the cable from the temperature sensor on the radiator to fell off, the one that gives the fan the order to step in. I made it thinner in order for it to stay on but still no lack, 20 mins ago i came home and while the cable is on this time, the fan is not working automatically.  I have an extra switch from where i can start it manually and the fan steps in this way.

7) Here in Greece the only shock absorbers for the r5gt are koni yellow (600 euros) are they worth it and do they synergize well with the r5 if anyone has tested them?


Any ideas-opinions especially for the "1)" problem? Ty a lot and gn  :mrgreen:

13
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Problem starting!
« on: 14:04, Sun 15 May 2011 »
Hello again guys, i have an issue ith the 5. Everytime i'm starting it like every 10-15 days it has serious problem starting. I have fuel going to the carb, power on the sparks and the starter is fine. But  it can't start. After 5-10 mins of trying and getting the battery almost flat it starts to do something like going to start but it doesn't. After 5-6 failed attempts after "starting" to stay more that 4 secs on idle it doesn't.
Finally at sometime it does start, spluttering here and there while i can't even touch the accelerator or it goes off. Again after a bit it's ok with enough spluttering but after a bit of gas it's just fine has perfect idle, it revs fine. Temperature great, fan cuts in when neded etc etc...

Before (like 8 months ago) it didn't have that issue. THe changes i did from then are NGK Platinum spark plugs, and full carb refurbish.

First i thought it was a spark plug issue but a friend of mine today where we had exactly the same issue, managed to make it start  quicker after playing a bit with the choque lever.
 He then said that it might be a carb problem, maybe the fuel doesn't full the carb so no fuel to tick it over.

Sorry for the big thread, i know it's a common issue i would just like to hear some opinions, and yes i know this problem has tns of threads in the forum and that's why i narrowed the problem in the upper 2 factors.

14
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Non ending Spluttering... h e l p
« on: 18:47, Sun 22 August 2010 »
Hello again to the dear members of this forum! I'm watching the forum a lot all this time but didnt have anything specific to write.

Please bare with me and my long post and please if anyone knows help me   :cry:

 Well after a full paintjob (ferrari Red  :twisted:  :twisted: ) where the car moved like 2 times by the person that painted it, he brought it home. All was ok, the engine was a-ok (the paintjob, freaqin awsome too!). He had to take it again to finish with some plastics. The next day he brought it, it was splattering like the engine broke or something!!! I nearly fainted cause  the first thought that pass through my mind was a picture of this person throttling my car like mad and generally running it like a race car...

After the initial shock and a talk with him, he told me that till the night before that he left it at the shop it was ok. The next morning that he was going to start and come to my house again with the start of the engine, it had this spluttering...
Well i checked the whole thing a lot, and i :
1)didnt see any blue-white-black smoke coming out of the exhaust or well, anywhere else. 2)The oil was ok and there,
3)checked the spark cables (new ones like one month ago anyway)
4) spark plugs are new BUT i couldn't check them as they were pretty much tightened and i didnt have the apropriate tool for their removal, so to avoid any broken spark plug after my trying to remove it i just left them unchecked.
5) spark is ok to all 4 cables and it seems strong enough
6) checked dizzy cup anyways, it had a few  black dirt but nothing special,cleaned it.
7) gasoline feed is ok checked it.
8) put new gasoline just in case
9) i've put gasoline filters before the gasoline pump a month ago with no problems after using it at all
9) only thing i could see and i don't know if its a problem, after removing the air pipe on top of carburator i checked and saw that after throttling a bit, gasoline was running around the tiny metal pipe that sprays gasoline inside the carburator.Shouldnt it run from the tiny pipe ONLY? + on no throttle the tiny tube didnt spray any gasoline nor i could see any of it "leaking" from around it as in throttling.

After messing a bit with electrics too (like after 5 hours breaking my head to find out what is happening) a friend came and just pressed the air lever-choke down then up again(not the throttle , the one above it that blokes the air)on the carburator and it was magically fixed!!! No spluttering AT ALL! I even went for a drive with it. It was fixed!
To clarify things i have pressed the choke myself a lot till this friend came  with 0 results...
I turned engine off, then on again with no spluttering.
Next day i started engine again and the spluttering was there again.... I messed again with the choke lever and after a while it was fixed... The 3rd day whatever i tried to do NOTHING, it kept spluttering like it was dieing.

Today i bought some carburator spray cleaners and opened it. All the needles were ok and clean except the one that is a big gold screw at the left and top of carburator as were facing it on engine. Nothing serious  but it left a stain at the cleaning cloth after spraying it a bit. The sealing rubber that seals the 2 parths of the carb wasn't teared or anything just a bit old but not a problem i believe.
The needles are: main jet 120, air jet is 125? Is the air needle right? The thing is that it was with these needles all this time with no problems.

Help i'm going maddddddd :evil:

p.s.: After checking the diy area of the forum i saw the topic about the jets and drilling them etc. I have to say that i didn't remove this triangular part of the carb for cleaning, so i don;t know if theres somthing worth be doing there.

15
Renault 5 GT Turbo / HF Lancia Carb???
« on: 15:16, Tue 08 September 2009 »
Hey guys a turbo specialist that i'm talking with informed me that they used to put Lancia Delta HF Turbo(1600) Carbs on R5s'. Has anyone heard anything about it?

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