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TECHNICAL ISSUES => Renault 5 GT Turbo => Topic started by: jamesfawcett on 17:21, Sun 18 January 2009

Title: Hot start problem - fan not kicking in for long
Post by: jamesfawcett on 17:21, Sun 18 January 2009
hi everyone, im having problems with hot starts after a run, after about 15 mins i cant start my R5.

Ive tried today to work out the problem, is it the little sensor that goes into the carb? The terminals look clean and everything seems ok. Sometimes the fan kicks in, sometimes it doesnt, but even when it does after turning the car off, its only for about 20 seconds then it goes off.

cheers
james
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Post by: stoneboy2k3 on 17:52, Sun 18 January 2009
check to see that the plug is on the temp sensor on the rad mine was loose and caused this problem
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Post by: r5gtt08 on 17:55, Sun 18 January 2009
if you have your anti-perc fan on yor car still it will be down to this as this usually kicks in to cool the petrol down in the carb

most people disconect it and just live with it like that

but if you want to keep it you could always put it to a switch so you know it has kicked in

and if yours is faulty/broken there is loads on ebay
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Post by: James5 on 19:32, Sun 18 January 2009
Now where is that youtube video of the R5 going up in flames due to the anti perc :idea:
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Post by: jamesfawcett on 21:24, Sun 18 January 2009
i saw that video, but was it because it didnt cool it down???
most people disconnect it and live with it? do you mean, each time they try to start? i have to have foot to the floor for abotu 10 seconds of turning over before it will start when the fan doesnt work, now im scared about fires! had a fire before in my mini!
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Post by: smithsgtt on 21:29, Sun 18 January 2009
by what i can gather the perc fan just siezed as the car was going along the road.
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Post by: Ash-Lee on 21:59, Sun 18 January 2009
They have a nasty habit of jamming up and catching fire. The inlet hole isn't filtered and all sorts can get in there from under the wheel arch. Even more so if you havent got the plastic arch lining fitted.

Trouble is when the fan catchs fire, so does the plastic tubing joined to it, and in there is the fuel pipe.  :lol:

I haven't got one fitted at all, hot starts aren't much of a problem for me. I don't have to crank it over for 10 seconds?  :shock:  If it doesn't fire up the first time it usually does the second time.
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Post by: james70 on 22:55, Sun 18 January 2009
no-one i know still has them, either get taken out or dont work.

turn the key, a few pumps of the peddle, depending on how hot she was it takes mine 2-5secs
Title: Hot start problem - fan not kicking in for long
Post by: jamesfawcett on 23:00, Sun 18 January 2009
Hi ok ive got some photos, its all alien to me but im learning slowly!! im so used to minis, this is a whole new world for me!!

I want to get rid of it, can you tell if i have one from these photos??
It does seem to go into the engine unfiltered.... :O


(http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/images/engine1.jpg)

(http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/images/engine2.jpg)

Its a phase2 but i think theres some other non standard engine bits, i dont know much about it! :)

Thanks
James
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Post by: r5gtt08 on 14:18, Tue 20 January 2009
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo26/r5gtt_2008/r5.jpg)

hope this helps (think you might have to enlarge it to see the words)

basicly it says the blue line is your anti perc fan and to remove it
firstly disconect the petrol pipe that goes into the carb(the green line/the one that comes out of the perc fan tube/housing
then loosen off the nuts/bolts on the motor next to the headlight and then puul the full unit out and reconect the petrol pipe to the carb and hey presto :lol:
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Post by: james70 on 18:23, Tue 20 January 2009
theres a few modified bits

strapped intercooler - suggests its seen more than standard boost

looks like it had a mod to the breather system with that little filter
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Post by: jamesfawcett on 10:16, Wed 21 January 2009
thanks!! i noticed the strapped intercooler, also it has a paddle clutch too, ill take a photo of my turbo i want to know if thats standard too,,

cheeers
james
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Post by: NickG on 20:20, Tue 27 January 2009
Hi James,

Funnily enough I'm just in the process of putting my anti perc fan back on and putting the engine back to how it was originally.

Have you taken yours off yet? If not, please could you tell me where the wires from the fan, the sensor under the carb and the sensor that is dangling where the turbo heat shield should be? Also where do the wires from the solenoid valve go?!

I'm having trouble finding this information, haynes manual seems to have it's wires crossed so to speak! The way it shows it doesn't make sense, and it doesn't show the turbo heat shield sensor or the solenoid valve.

 :shock:  :?:  :?

Nick
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Post by: jamesfawcett on 22:16, Tue 27 January 2009
hi nick, id love to help but mine is bodged on my car, i was tracing the wires the other day and mine isnt wired from the factory either :( ill take some photos tomorow to show where they go,
cheers
james
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Post by: NickG on 16:06, Wed 28 January 2009
Thanks a lot that would be a great help!

Love your mini by the way. I had a Mini with 1380cc semi race spec engine and loved it but always wanted a turbocharged one. I bought the turbo bits but that was as far as I got, what's yours like to drive?

Nick
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Post by: Ash-Lee on 16:20, Wed 28 January 2009
Quote from: "NickG"
Hi James,

Funnily enough I'm just in the process of putting my anti perc fan back on and putting the engine back to how it was originally.

Have you taken yours off yet? If not, please could you tell me where the wires from the fan, the sensor under the carb and the sensor that is dangling where the turbo heat shield should be? Also where do the wires from the solenoid valve go?!

I'm having trouble finding this information, haynes manual seems to have it's wires crossed so to speak! The way it shows it doesn't make sense, and it doesn't show the turbo heat shield sensor or the solenoid valve.

 :shock:  :?:  :?

Nick


The wiring and relay for the anti-perc fan should be behind the drivers side headlight, the wiring for the sensors should be clipped somewhere along the bulkhead.

Worst case scenario is that the wirings been chopped out.  :(
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Post by: NickG on 20:19, Wed 28 January 2009
It's been taken out on mine!  :cry:
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Post by: Ash-Lee on 16:59, Thu 29 January 2009
Brand new under bonnet wiring looms are available, unless you want to try and decipher the wiring diagrams in the back of the haynes manuel.

There not even diagrams in my opinion, they just tell you the colour, thickness and code of what wire connects what. It doesn't give you any real indication of where the wire is or what part of the loom it runs in and on top of that there split across about 10 pages.
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Post by: NickG on 17:39, Thu 29 January 2009
I can't make head nor tail of the ones in haynes, I'm convinced they're wrong!