I decided to do a little write up on how to change a starter motor without removing too many other parts in the engine bay making it quicker and easier
The tools you will need:
Jack and Axle Stands.
13mm spanner (optional)
Flat headed screw driver
A torch is handy too.
It will vary, today it took me 40 minutes to change, with a coffee stop and time to take photots.
Disconect the battery terminals, the starter motor has a direct live so you don't want it shorting out!
Now jack up the car and remove the Driver's
side wheel. Yes, the driver's one.
Now the wheel is out of the way, you will be able to look up through the arch and see the starter motor at the back of the engine block
Now take your 13mm socket with the extension bar and undo the 13mm nut on the lower part of the starter motor and pull off the solenoid wire.
Tuck these cables down out of the way so they don't get trapped when you fit your new starter motor.
Walk around to the passenger side of the car. Here you will need your 16mm socket, spanner and the screwdriver.
I found it easiest to remove the air filter for extra room to get to the bolts to release the starter.
There are three 16mm bolts holding the unit to the gear box. two at the top and one lower down. Undo these three bolts.
( I realise I missed a bolt through the hole :lol: )
Walk back around to the driver's side and reach in to the starter motor. Give it a wiggle and it will come free. Now you can wriggle and jiggle out through the wheel arch.
Hey-Presto... Its out!
If you're lucky the locating dowel will have stayed in place. If not, take a not of where it should be and put it back, It'll make the re-fitting much easier.
Fitting the new starter motor is the reverse of removal.
Start by offering the new unit up through the driver's side arch, with the terminal lug side towards the bulkhead.
With a wriggle and a push you will be able to push it through to where it will need to be.
Now, back to the passenger side with the 16mm spanner and socket again.
Reach in and lift the starter motor up to sit on the locating dowel and slide a bolt in to hold it steady. I found it easiest to get the top left bolt in first, and do it up, but not tight just yet.
With the top bolt in the unit should be nicely in place to get the remaing two bolts in and nip them all up tight.
Back to the driver's side.
Remember the three cables you tucked out of the way? Now, pull them back up to where they want to be.
Reach in and pop the solenoid wire back on to its connection.
Then get the two cables with the lugs (from battery and from the altenator) and slot them onto the threadded terminals nearest the bulkhead. Now put a nice anti-vibration washer and 13mm nut on and tighten with your 13mm socket.
You can now re-connect the battery and give it a test.
Check you haven't left any tools inside the bay.
Refit the wheel.
Now go for a drive
I really hope this is of some help to at least one person. :lol:
If you have any other tricks and tips to add, or if I've made a mistaake, feel free to post up