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Messages - MATT BLACK

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46
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Re: Another carb question SOLEX 32 DIS
« on: 14:15, Thu 04 November 2010 »
So if i run the car at 15 / 16 psi max on the standard blower do i just need to drill the main jet at the base of the carb ? and if im running at 15 / 16 psi what size drill / jet do you recommend ?

I dont have access to a wideband kit either but the car is being set up on Saturday at the powerzone in Burnley.

Can i buy the jets and can they be fitted easily enough with the carb bolted onto the inlet ?

Thanks for your help lads

47
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Another carb question SOLEX 32 DIS
« on: 11:23, Thu 04 November 2010 »
The set up on my car is now back to standard after replacing a lot of vacuum pipes and botched wiring ( someone had been playing with it that didnt know what they were doing ) Ive fitted a brand new turbo, Pace intercooler, new exhaust, new rad, plugs, distributor cap, temp sensors etc + various other ancileries and now the car goes like snot of a stick and is running really well. The original turbo had a large crack on the wastegate housing.

What would you guys recommend running the standard T2 at and would you recommend rejetting the carb for the sort of horsepower gains i will get with a standard T2 or do i just leave it as it is.

Any other advice will be greatly appreciated ( going in for rolling road tune Sat morn )

Thanks
Matt

( just read Steve's post on carbs in the tech section - excellent post )

48
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Re: gt tuning cockpit boost controller
« on: 11:10, Thu 04 November 2010 »
So you recommend setting the boost pressure at one particular setting and adjusting the carb to match and then just leaving it ( ie - dont play around with the bleed valve )

49
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Re: AEI unit
« on: 10:54, Thu 04 November 2010 »
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8812

This post has a diagram with the air pipe / fuel pipe set up - diagram 41 ( from top )

50
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Re: gt tuning cockpit boost controller
« on: 10:00, Wed 03 November 2010 »
If you cut the pipe from the lobster ( black plastic inlet on top of carb - outlet pipe closest to the front of the car on the right hand side ) to the actuator ( red arrow ) and then insert the bleed valve or adj boost control pipes to each pipe with a union and jubilee clips. See pic


51
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Re: Temperature Problem
« on: 09:47, Mon 01 November 2010 »
The rads on these cars get blocked through years and years of running. Basically the inside of the engine corrodes ( ever so slightly ) and the small fragments of metal / rust get carried around the engine into the rad / heater matrix and the rads filter them out thus blocking the cooling surface area of the rad by up to 1/3rd. I've recently fitted a new rad, new fan sensor ( low temp 78 ), flushed the original coolant and replenished it with 5 lts of Renault coolant type D ( ethylene glycol based ) and then bled the system......it rarely goes over the first marker on the gauge now.

First of all remove your header tank, remove the cap and lift the header tank as high as you can. Put your mouth around the filler neck and blow into it as hard as you can whilst the bleed screw on the top hose is partially unscrewed. Keep blowing until all the trapped air has left the system and you can see water constantly coming out. Screw the bleed valve back in tightly. Repeat the exercise with the bleed valve on the smaller pipe to the left hand side of the water pump. Then replenish the coolant in your header tank ( use an ethylene glycol based product with additives to prevent corrosion - dont just use water ) If your radiator isnt blocked and all your sensors are fully operational your engine will be running a lot cooler now. Only carry out this operation when the engine water is cold. I would also check the electrics to make sure the rad cooling fan is working ( siezed motor ? ) and the rad fan sensor circuit.

Before attempting the above, check the obvious ( no water leeks / blown head gasket etc ).

52
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Re: Turbo Removal
« on: 11:33, Tue 26 October 2010 »
The 4 x 13mm bolts on the turbo housing are pretty simple to remove but you have to go about the procedure with patience. The 2 top ones are very simple to remove but the 2 underneath are a little tricky.

Before removal i would soak the nuts / threads in WD40 / penetrating oil overnight - make sure its everywere. To gain access to the 2 x 13mm nuts on the underside of the turbo use a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a swivel head + 13mm hexagonal socket. Make sure the socket has an hexagonal internal shape as the other type have a tendancy to round the nuts off. If this happens your buggered. There isnt much leverage so be patient and use another tool ( large 3/8ths drive socket + small extension ) to slot over the end of the 1/4 ratchet for leverage ( nuts can be tight )

There is a small bracket under the turbo held on with 13mm nuts you will have to remove in order to gain access to the nuts on the underside of the turbo. As previously stated make sure the socket is on tight because if it slips and rounds the nuts off your up sh1t creek without a paddle ( can still be removed but hard work )


The nuts on the elbow are a doddle - again, soak them in penetrating oil and then attack them with a socket / spanner ( you can see the top one but the one underneath you will have to do blind if your stood at the front end of the car )

The key to a successful removal is the right tooling.




53
Newbies / Re: newbie ( Renault bod )
« on: 09:03, Thu 21 October 2010 »
Cheers all !!

The back box is the genuine Renault unit still available from the dealer - the one with the chrome tip !!

Flan did a cracking job on his 16v but personally i would have gone for the big power route. Think hes done a recent conversion on one of the lads Clio cups from Cliosport.

Matt

54
Newbies / Re: newbie ( Renault bod )
« on: 17:12, Wed 20 October 2010 »
The car is totally standard bar the back box ( ordered a genuine renault unit and its arrived today ) part number 7700436453 110 + vat. Someone has fitted a bleed valve and a green filter to the car but im not happy with the set up so ive stripped them off and converted it back to standard for the time being.

The bodywork will remain 100% standard, along with the wheels - people ruin these cars with kits and large wheels - theres not many left now so standard spec is the way forward.

My plans include a full mechanical overhaul ( engine, brakes, suspension etc ) and once im happy the car is running right i will go around sorting the bodywork which isnt to bad to be honest.

The only mods will be a new turbo ( T2/T25 ) re-jetted carb and a pace intercooler to give the car a realistic 150 / 160 bhp.

The car has covered 103k with some history.

The interior again is pretty good but showing signs of age ( worn carpet, rear seats look tired ) but these can be sorted easily enough.

Matt

55
Renault 5 GT Turbo / C405 MECHANICAL PARTS DIAGRAM
« on: 13:33, Wed 20 October 2010 »
Heres a list of all the mechanical parts for the Renault 5 GT Turbo. It should help you identify items you need when your rebuilding / repairing an engine. It would take me days to list all of the part numbers so if you need any help just pm me.

I also have panel work and interior schematic drawings.

When ordering parts from Renault you could print the pics off to show the parts lads the bits you need as lets face it - half of them dont know what there doing.
















































































































































56
Renault 5 GT Turbo / Re: radiator
« on: 12:39, Wed 20 October 2010 »
Just to let you lads know the part number for a genuine Renault rad is 7701414002 and they retail at 169.34 + vat.

( yours may be ok - has it been bled up ? check for trapped air / air pockets - use a good coolant not just water )

However when the main dealer purchases stock from Renault UK they get discount. On new rads / exchange rads the discount code is "01" which is 50%. So the main dealer pays 84.67 + vat for the new part. Its then at the parts managers discretion wether he gives you a big discount or not ? its up to him and how much you've spent there in the past ( yeh i got one at 84.67  :D - just received it today )

I have access to the complete parts system at Renault UK and can give you part numbers and retails prices ( which change very often ) for anything.

You will be surprised at whats still available and how cheap it is !!

Matt


57
Do it yourself / Re: 20v Turbo conversion.
« on: 16:17, Tue 19 October 2010 »
For the masses.........

First you will need an AGU lump ( big port head ) found in the 150 bhp audi A3 / Golf gti. Try and get a complete lump from a donor car with the gearbox and shafts etc. The standard crank is good for 450 bhp. I took the bore to 82.5mm ( 1900cc ) and ran JE pistons and IE Rods.

At the time i bought a turbo / manifold and injector kit from Jabba sport but you can pick one up a hell of a lot cheaper than the "at the time 2000" kit ( bearing in mind this was back in 2003 and this was a new thing at the time ) the turbo i used was a IHI VF34 with bosch 440 injectors and a pace intercooler.

I ran a DTA eng man system + loom. A decent fabricator could build you a manifold / down pipe quite easily. The flanges are available from pipe werx ( ian birch ). You will have to fabricate 3 engine mounts ( use the 1.8T units ) o/s/f + n/s/f and a rear dog leg mount.

I used the VAG inner CV and shaft to mate up to the VAG gearbox end, chopped it 3/4 way down and then chopped the renault shaft and inserted it into the hollow VAG shaft, measured it with the renault side of the shaft in the renault hub. Once you get the length right ( make sure car is on the ground with engine and box in ) mark it up, tack it with a mig and then remove it. I drilled straight the both shafts and pinned them + welded the join. The car was just over 400 bhp and the shafts never snapped once.

You can run either a DTA or Emerald set up to supply power to the lump. I also uprated the fuel pump ( walbro unit from an evo )

The VAG gearbox runs an hydraulic clutch with a master and slave cylinder. I cut the master cylinder off a Golf GT TDi clutch pedal and welded it up to the Clio pedal. I than fabricated my own clutch pipe ( used a motor bike reservoir ) and then mated this up to the standard VAG slave cylinder - bleed it up and away you go.

The standard Audi TT clutch handled the power fine. Use the petrol 5 speed box - i made the mistake of fitting a 6 speed Golf GT TDi box with a quaiife LSD which limited my quarter mile time - a 5 speed ( 02J ) would have powered me into the mid 11's no messing.

This gives you a quick insight as to what to do. Theres not much more to it ( i make it sound easy lol ) if you need any help just pm me or email me at renaultengines@hotmail.com

These engines can be taken up to stupid HP ( my pal runs a 750bhp MK1 scirocco that runs 9's ) if youv'e got the coin the sky is your limit.

Matt



























58
Do it yourself / Re: 20v Turbo conversion.
« on: 12:26, Tue 19 October 2010 »
Cool - i can tell you some tales about that car !!

Glad to see its still alive.

59
Do it yourself / Re: 20v Turbo conversion.
« on: 11:06, Tue 19 October 2010 »
Done a few of these in my time - very simple to do, cheap and effective.


I Built this back in 2003 - you may know it as the Clio TT ? its been through a few hands since i sold it.

I think some guy of RTOC owns it now and the last i heard he was butchering it to drop in a 5 ?  :cry:




60
Newbies / newbie ( Renault bod )
« on: 09:29, Tue 19 October 2010 »
Hey up, the names Matt - just bought this totally standard R5 GT Turbo last week and im planning to do a complete renovation of the car.

The car is totally standard and very original - its a little tatty but its all there and complete.

I had quite a few GT Turbos back in the early 90's and now at the grand old age of 36 i thought why not add another to the list.

I'm a Renault tech and have worked at Renault / independent specialists for 15 years.

Some pics ( original advert in autotrader )








Matt

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